Following the Yellow Brick Road
One of the most influential theatrical productions I’ve experienced during my lifetime has been the film, The Wizard of Oz. I’ve always admired the ability of wizards to travel backwards in timeless eternity, creating personal reality and destiny for themselves, as masters of their own souls. So, in that context and thought I decided to “recreate” and take a road trip “back in time” to one of Mexico’s most successful Ejido communities. One thing I love about Baja California is that whenever you need or want to “go back to the good old times” all you have to do is drive south of Ensenada, excepting Cabo San Lucas.
This journey “back in time” takes me south of Ensenada for about 50 miles to experience Ejido Erendira.
This is not an adventure for the “weak of heart or spirit” for it is a wake-up call and somewhat of a reality check on the dynamics of a simplistic, communal lifestyle in times of globalization, materialism and consumerism. Personally, I see life in Ejido Erendira as one of the premier victories and successes of Mexico’s revolution of 1910 - for common citizens and the “ambitious” poor. Sometimes true democracy actually lies quietly between the cracks of illusion and deception. Having said that, be prepared to follow a rough and rocky dirt road to Ejido Erendira, where you just might find the allusive and magical Yellow Brick Road. And, you can navigate the paved and patched canyon road that takes off from Highway One and then onto the dirt, potholed road with a normal two wheel drive vehicle, if you take your time and use common sense.
Follow Highway One south of Ensenada towards Santo Tomas Valley. You’ll find a “speed bump” in the highway about one mile after you pass the winery (left side) in Valle de Santo Tomas at a “little oasis” called El Palomar. This gas station, store and hotel is a great spot for a meal, snacks, cool drinks, restroom or fuel stop. At this point in the adventure, you are about twenty-five miles away from the turnoff to Erendira. Continue south and you’ll see the turnoff on your right at kilometer marker Km 78. This is a junction with a patched, paved road that takes you down a beautiful valley for over twelve miles to the ocean where you’ll turn right and head back up the coast towards Santo Tomas.
Now, for “insider tips” I’m going to share some of my travel secrets with you. Promise me you won’t ruin this place and if you are another warped southern California developer just dying to “cali-fornicate Baja - please keep going all the way to Cabo and take your “disneyland consciousness” with you! We all need some place in the world that is real and natural, rightt?
First, stock up on food and essential necessities in Ensenada or some other well-supplied area as this oceanside community is rural and remote with limited supplies. If you were a “flower child” or ever wanted to be one, (it’s never too late) you’ll love this place. Although here you’ll often find beer swigging rednecks, off-road racers, surfers, starry-eyed hippies, international travelers and others ~ all living in harmony and having a great time in “old school” Baja California at Coyote Cal’s International Hostel. Everyone here is required to respect all lifestyles, act normal and to respect all social laws and customs. Other than that, this is a very beautiful place with a spotless communal kitchen, super-reduced lodging fees, awesome bar with a “world class” tequila collection. In addition, they provide cooking utensils, silverware, glasses (wine drinkers bring your wine glasses) and offer free breakfast with room rentals. They have internet access, phones, surfboard rentals and lessons, detailed tour and adventure information books, video movie rentals, and more. Rick, the owner, and his sidekick Apache, the manager, will make sure you have a great time and are two very wonderful hosts and “entertainment managers.”
The real “hidden treasures” of Erendira are the natural ecosystems, beautiful and unspoiled coastal areas, sand dunes and deserted beaches, surf spots, permeated with peace, tranquility and quiet. If that’s not enough, you might consider the abundance of fresh seafood, and acres of organic produce to include: Brussel spouts, celery, onions, and fresh herbs. Castro’s fishing camp offers guided fishing trips and is home to an amazing fish market and cooperation that has fresh fish on a daily basis with below wholesale prices. By the way, onshore and offshore fishing is awesome here, guided fishing trips are incredible with a diversity of game fish that is rare, yet abundant. It didn’t take me long to figure out the basics of purchasing fresh seafood and produce, then hauling them into the kitchen of Coyote Cal’s. Bring our own gourmet Baja California olive oil and bread, you’ll be set for some great meals, and if you time it right, you can enjoy a stunning sunset lunch or dinner from one of three balcony viewpoints. Quite often this kind of behavior is contagious and many potluck events are formed and enjoyed by all. Furthermore, if you just want to relax and let others cook for you ~ I suggest an incredible cafe called Cocina Familiar Vannia located in the village of Erendira. Three generations of local women have created a delightful culinary wonder featuring fresh seafood, specials, classic Mexican food, with unsurpassed service and hospitality. It’s about a fifteen minute drive from Coyote Cal’s - ask for directions and hours.
One unique and outstanding feature of Coyote Cal’s is their Royal Thai Massage Spa and School. A certified Thai masseuse who studied in a renown Buddhist school provides healing bodywork, face and foot massage, manicures, pedicures, and classes in message therapy. So, although this place is laid-back and natural, it offers some classic amenities and first class experiences. Some folks fear they’ll encounter “pot smoking hippies” here, but in reality, you’ll always find interesting people from all walks of life and from many countries. Everyone here at Cal’s find an abundance of fun and enjoy sharing their diversity with great conversations and friendship. Contact: 011-52-646 154-4080, e-mail at: bajabuddies@coyotecals.com or www.coyotecals.com.
I drove down to Cal’s in my jeep truck and hauled along my ancient Honda three-wheeler. As a child touring Baja California with my dad and his wild friends, we explored the back roads of the region in off-road vehicles and motorcycles. So, it was nice to follow some of the same old trials some forty years later and discover “that not much has changed.” In addition, the Baja 500 race course passes thru the area and is real fun to explore with an off-road vehicle or cycle. After cruising over sand dunes and deserted beaches, where I was the only explorer, it reminded me of the “good old days” with my family and friends when we enjoyed the “freedom and spirit” of rural Baja California.
At one point as I rolled through a field of yellow wild flowers in full bloom, and with the wind blowing through my hair, I experienced a magical moment of freedom and nirvana. Suddenly, I began laughing, for I realized I was on the Yellow Brick Road ~ somewhere between home and the land of Oz. It was magical, healing and spontaneous. Alone, independent, far from rules and regulations, crowds, noise and pollution, commercialization and distraction - free at last, free at last! This is the “true essence” of Baja California, sometimes all it takes is simplicity to see the perfection in life itself. And, it is most rewarding to see that “poor” people working together in the best interest of community and each other can create a rewarding lifestyle for all citizens. Sometimes true “richness” is really about all cooperation and community. It’s true that the Wizard of Oz never really gave the tin man or the lion something that they didn’t already have within, and so, it may be true that freedom is always there for those wise enough to see and appreciate it ~ freedom and happiness are usually found in the simple things in life. Simple, like Baja California. Viva Mexico!